We were lucky with good weather. I also crossed Evolution creek at the alternate, which was swampy but looked much easier than the main crossing. Then it was hot, and I sweated out what little water I had. No storms. No rain. Glaciers clung to the northern slopes of the mountains, feeding small waterfalls. This was an epic backpacking trip and I would do it all over again to see evolution basin, and everything in between. We hiked this trail June 5th to the 7th. September after Labor Day was a great time to make this trip, as the crowds had thinned but the mild climate lingered. Completed this loop South - North May 26-29. Ive seen worse, bug-wise. I hiked along this stretch of river for almost three miles, and sweated profusely the entire time. Ascending out of 5,400-foot Taboose Pass Trail Head in the Owens River Valley, the Goliath climbs steeply and starkly into a saw blade of 13,000- to 14,000-foot Central Sierra mountains. Ouch! Id see how I felt when I got to the the trail junction. We got there between 4:30-5 on a week day and there wasn't anyone available -- so we hitched and got a ride pretty easily. At least there might be shade along this section, I thought to myself. Push to camp spots near the McClure Meadow ranger station; you will be rewarded with the best breakfast scenery the next day (night 2). Soon the trail crossed Evolution Creek, which was quite large at this point. Day 2 Dusy Basin to Big Pete Meadow Evolution Valley Ascension, Kings Canyon National Park and John Muir Wilderness, California Sierra Club Outings Trip | Backpack More Photos Highlights Traverse high mountain passes including Piute and Muir Hike among lush green meadows full shallow tarns Enjoy a layover day to explore or relax Includes And the very first waterfall wasnt even listed on my map: It was on a small creek that flowed down into the valley from Darwin Bench. The mosquitoes were intense in certain areas. Plenty of camp sites a long the way. Im a layman, what can I say? There were a few sections that were mosquito-dense, but otherwise the bugs and critters were tolerable! They were running a bit late to make it to Canada before the Autumn snows, and they knew it. Tiny bit of snow on bishop pass was completely avoidable. Recommend to everybody. The trail starts at North Lake (9,276'), soon enters the John Muir Wilderness, and ascends to Piute Pass (11,423') in four steep miles. Beautiful scenery, abundant water, breathtaking vistas. Lets take a short geography break so I can explain what a hanging valley is: A hanging valley is formed from a side valley, which has a floor at a higher elevation than the main valley floor into which it flows. We did 7 nights, 8 days with our first and last days being half days. Some hikers like to stop for a soak at the public hot springs across the river, just beyond the Muir Trail Ranch. First campsite - Blaney Meadow (10 miles). We decided to put in stakes about a mile and a half before Piute Pass on what I considered to be the Best in Show campsite winner. I had my food in a bear cannister, But getting partway up toward the pass seemed like a fine idea. Great hike to explore the backcountry and multiple parks. It was not very buggy and lightly rained on 2/8 days. I did a backpacking trip over the 4th of July weekend over 4 days, starting at Florence Lake, going up to Evolution Lake. Evolution Lake has lots of excellent campsites. At Piute Pass, we headed off trail toward Muriel Lake, then Alpine Col, which takes the hiker to the gorgeous Darwin Lakes and Darwin Bench area. Us silly girls didnt expect something for nothing did we? Life was good again. Definitely a moderate hike, but doable in 4 days. 5 trip report day 12-16: Muir Trail Ranch to Onion Valley Trailhead. Speaking of water, we regularly forded streams ranging from little hip-hop creeks to put-on-your-water-shoes-and-unbuckle-your-pack soakers! Camp at Wanda Lake along the trail to Muir Pass; no campsites after first quarter mile (night 3). contour 80 feet UTM zone 11 Customers Like You Also Purchased USA Highways Wall Map $10.95 Custom Radius Maps $175.00 Island Visions $39.99 Rides of a Lifetime: Southwest by MAD Maps $16.95 I felt a whining session coming on, Pleeeeese dont make me leave. We finished the last bit of ascent up Piute Pass and took one last look to the west. Id have the trail to myself for a while. Some of the travel is cross country but fairly easy to navigate. This is a beautiful post. It was cloudy for much of the way, but it only rained briefly. I kept hoping to find a side stream, but all of the obvious places were dry as a bone. They finished up their meal and continued onward, while I read my book and watched the river go by. From there we day packed to evolution lake the third day. At mile 5.5 we crossed the river again and took a short break at the base of a long series of switchbacks that would bring us up to Evolution Valley. On the fourth day of my trek, I backpacked north from Evolution Lake, down into the Evolution Valley with its lush meadows and waterfalls, then down even further to the South Fork San Joaquin River, which I followed downstream yet more, until I left the JMT/PCT for the Piute Pass Trail, climbing this time . Western States Climbers Emblem Peaks Showing Kimberly Berg's first ascent dates for climbed peaks (0 out of 129, or 0%) Piute Pass going in is a bit of a doozy so push on over and head for lower altitude camping or you may be whacked by the elevation. One bite of the Evolution area is Several of our trails give entry to the John Muir Trail or Pacific Crest Trail with the opportunity to trek in the longest roadless section of the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range. Do I really get to be here? Oh, yes, this was heavenly! Turn left and descend to Upper Lamarck Lake. Save 4 miles of hiking by riding the Florence Lake Ferry. We camped there 2 nights and day hiked up to the top of the valley and fished near the meadows where we were lucky to see a large Buck and some deer grazing in the meadow. Our payback day ended up being 13 miles, almost all uphill. Pick up the trail on the eastern edge of Upper Lamarck Lake. Rattlesnakes are always possible; but with the popularity of the trail, rattlesnakes are rarely seen. Always confirm information with the service provider and check for any recent changes that may have been made. Would recommend to anyone wanting to experience the High Sierras. The river is nice to camp by here. Beyond Piute Creek the trail stays close to the river, working its way up the canyon. Though ruled by an evil mosquito king that keeps his troops busy, Big Pete Meadow (the meadow part should have been our clue) was a delight. I wished her well. Slightly brutal at times-especially for a beginner- but the views are unmatched. We had perfect weather, saw some incredible scenery and wildlife, and had an overall fantastic time! Just as I was pondering what to do, a couple came down the trail! Follow it 2.1 miles back to the trailhead. Mendel, which is part of the Evolution range. The final day we packed out. Get to know the winter safety gear you need in your pack. You can learn more about her travels with her husband, Mitch, on CruisingSailors.com. 5.1 trip report. So we caught the 9:00am ferry across and bought a few things in the little store there. I want to hike West to East in the lowest part of the evolution valley, beginning at Edison Lake. Water is abundant if you plan it right. Conditions are continuously changing and wilderness hikers need to plan for inclement weather. I took off my shoes and let my damp feet dry out in the breeze. We hiked the whole way out the third day, back around the lake to the car. Massive trail work project that ascends a sheer gully with switchbacks stacked on top of one another like wacky Jenga blocks. Day three Descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. Didn't make it up to the lake, but SO HAPPY that we made it to the Hermit. Get full access to Outside Learn, our online education hub featuring in-depth fitness, nutrition, and adventure courses and more than 2,000 instructional videos when you sign up for Outside+ Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. Saw plenty of deer, and other hikers saw a few bears in the meadows. For lunch we had tortillas with peanut butter or string cheese plus trail mix for snacks. The next morning, we continued on the Piute Trail and crossed the bridge onto the John Muir Trail (JMT) where we were paralleling a fast-moving San Joaquin River located within the Kings Canyon National Park. Very exciting. Our group of six left a vehicle at the termination point (South Lake trailhead) then drove to the North Lake overnight parking lot and we started our journey in the late afternoon. Campsite 3: Colby Meadow. History. Explore Evolution Valley - view hand-curated trail maps and driving directions as well as detailed reviews and photos from hikers, campers and nature lovers like you. Starting at Lake Sabrina we could do a proper loop with just two 2 mile stretches on the road. Breathtaking landscapes. Front Runners List: Click to see list completion progress by climbers that log their climbs using Peakbagger.com. Tracked 40 miles total and we caught the ferry on the way in and out. Do you wish to share an stories about that particular spot? We descended down Muir Pass which seemed endless until camping near the Le Conte Ranger Station. After we got a bit past Summit Lake, we left the trail and headed to Lower Desolation Lake, Desolation Lake and Mesa Lake, where we camped for the night. Cottonwood to Onion Valley: Onion Valley to Bishop Pass: Evolution Loop: July 28-August 4. The trail wandered along through the forest, not far from Evolution Creek, which was flowing peacefully and slow. Privacy Policy, Learn about the Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge. This is one of my favorite trips of many in the eastern Sierra. My inner dialogues attitude was quickly adjusted when I looked back from whence we cameMt. $4,995: August 6-11. Day 6: In the morning the sun popped over Piute Pass and we were instantly warmed and reluctant to pack up and head back out into civilization less than 7 miles away. Roundtrip mileage to the McClure Meadow Ranger Station from the south end of Florence Lake is about 15.5 miles and 1500 feet of elevation gain. The next morning we left the JMT and made our way up, up, and up to Bishop Pass via Dusy Basin which was over 6 miles away from the JMT junction. We made a few mistakes that cost us a lot of time, however.we didn't take the ferry out, and lost the trail around the lake - a mistake that cost us several hours to climb over boulders and ledges. Enjoy! Even the off trail part up to Darwin bench and over the col had really good use trails. It was gorgeous. There was a traditional wide and shallow ford. I took a break on the edge of the meadow and got out my map. if you go over table top mountain you can make it a complete loop. They were hustling right along. The Vanderbilt Mine is located partly on private land in the San Bernardino County, two miles west of California-Nevada state lines in the New York mountains four miles southeast of the Ivanpah valley within the Mojave National Preserve. Turn left and cross the South Fork San Joaquin River. Then back to camp and packed up everything continuing on JMT . When we crossed the river it was only about knee deep and also like to mention NO mosquitoes so we were super lucky. But the Ionian Basin is a very special place for backcountry skiers, with all kinds of great slopes and skiable peaks. The mosquitos were relentless though. North to South Lake is the easiest way to go with passes not too difficult. Day 2: In the morning, we broke camp early and switch-backed up to Bishop Pass. Trailhead: Florence Lake, 84 miles east of Fresno, elevation 7,300 feet These Photos Prove It. My wife and I did the trek in June with our 9 month old in tow. One of the greatest hikes I've ever done. Awesome views and an incredible variety of terrain. For trail conditions and more details about this hike, check out my YouTube Video I made from this backpacking trip on my channel: Kikis Adventures. It often has waterfalls cascading from its outlet because of the abrupt drop off. Laura Manina, my sister and fellow backpacker, shares her experiences and tips on backpacking a 57-mile loop to the Evolution Valley. The ferry was not running yet. North Lake to Hutchinson Meadow is very straightforward. I found a shady spot above the creek and took off my pack. Day 2: Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park). Edit Last Edited by tomripley30 Sights to See North Lake Campground Stock Camp Summit Lake The Bonner explored this area in 1895 while scouting a hikers route along the crest of the Sierra (it would eventually become the John Muir Trail). Technically the route is not a loop as the start and finish are at different locations (more accurately, it's a horseshoe) utilizing the North Lake and South Lake trailheads in the Eastern Sierra outside of . Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more. They came across a congregation of stunning peaks lining the South Fork of the San Joaquin River, and they altered course to the glaciated valley beneath them, finding clear lakes, dwarf meadows, and jagged sky-stabbing peaks. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Your email address will not be published. Piute Pass: Begins at North Lake. Its about half way down Dusy basin. The normal crossing is not recommended now due to the higher flow, so people have been crossing upstream a bit. Mosquitos were pretty bad in the meadows, and none up at Evolution Lake, so I recommend bug spray! We hiked up to Piute Creek the first day it was 13.1 miles since the ferry was not running on our hike up. Now I cant breathe for another reason. . Maybe I was oxygen-starved, but my companions said they were similarly affected. It ended the same way that it started: With Waterfalls! We fell about 2 miles short of the destination endpoint with loss of daylightlesson learned, if this is a short weekend excursion, you need to get there early and push through hard. Such a memorable backpacking trip! Florence Lake Store and Ferry. Pictures posted. Piute Pass was comparatively easy with just a few snow patches. Required fields are marked *. for errors or for changes that may have occurred since publication. amazing. From there we pass through the giant cirque of Humphreys Basin, and into Hutchinson Meadow, and Piute Canyon. Day two Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park) at mile 17.4. I used my water like always. So peaceful and tranquil. Day 4: Rest and explore. The uphill miles to reach John Muir Pass gave quite a different landscape than we had seen so far. It happens from glacial erosion that widens and deepens the main valley leaving the geographic feature that seems to float above it. Personally, I simply call it a crazy, beautiful valley with great views. Only one water crossing (Evolution creek) that required getting your feet wet. Piute Pass 01:05:00 Hutchinson Meadow 02:18:02 Piute Canyon/JMT Junction 3:13:44 Goddard Canyon Junction 3:50:59 McClure Meadow Ranger . The hiking was challenging for us (22 year old girls), but we probably brought too heavy of packs. I'll be going back next weekend into the Evolution Basin higher up. Map Mono Divide High Country ($10, tomharrisonmaps.com). For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page, For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page, Dawn alpenglow over Evolution Lake as I packed up all my gear for another big day of hiking, Dawn color in the clouds above Evolution Valley to the north, Waterfall on the creek that descends from Darwin Bench, after the JMT descends into Evolution Valley, Crossing the creek below the waterfall it was very wide with many small crossings, The Hermit (12328 feet elevation), standing alone and shining bright, at the upper end of Evolution Valley, View up Evolution Valley, over McClure and Colby Meadows with Evolution Creek on the right, and The Hermit, center, The McClure Meadow Ranger Station and the notices outside near the trail, View over McClure Meadow in the morning light, Still water on an curving stretch of Evolution Creek, down in the flat section of Evolution Valley, This is the lower ford of Evolution Creek, where the PCT-JMT crosses this could be dangerous in Spring, The first of several powerful waterfalls and cascades on Evolution Creek down at the lower end of Evolution Valley, One waterfall after another on this section of the creek, Wide-angle GoPro shot looking down into the worn granite where Evolution Creek tumbled downward, One last view of Evolution Creek as it churned down a granite chute on its way out of Evolution Valley, Mount Henry (12196 feet) peeking out between two glaciated granite domes above the South Fork San Joaquin River, The wooden bridge where the JMT-PCT first crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, Aspen and pine forest at a much lower elevation it was HOT, The metal bridge where the PCT-JMT crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, View from the metal bridge looking north (downstream), The South Fork San Joaquin River as I hiked north on the John Muir Trail in the sun, The river goes through a steep gorge down below a talus slide. Highly recommend pushing up to lower Dusy Basin (though there are several campsites about 1200 vertical feet up from Le Conte, just prior to a bridge crossing) (night 4). I finally had a chance to use the water shoes Id been carrying! I've done this trail 4 times and it is amasing. We had it easy in September, but Ive heard that earlier in the season hikers should be prepared for more difficult fordings. It is visible from the trail, but some hikers have walked past it without noticing it. Completed 14-17AUG. This was hands down one of the best hikes I've done in the High Sierras. Because of the late snowfall, we were graced with the continued presence of wildflowers, complimented by the beginnings of golden fall, as we skip-trah-lahed our way alongside crashing gorge waterfalls and the calm tracing of the San Joaquin River. I think this might be a great time to interject that finding water was never, ever a problem. Evolution Valley. On the fourth day of my trek, I backpacked north from Evolution Lake, down into the Evolution Valley with its lush meadows and waterfalls, then down even further to the South Fork San Joaquin River, which I followed downstream yet more, until I left the JMT/PCT for the Piute Pass Trail, climbing this time, and eventually camped along Piute Creek. Spectacular scenery abounds, with tumbling waterfalls, flowing creeks, glittering lakes, stately forests, and imposing mountains galore. We offer this guided journey in three itineraries: 3-day Ultralight 4-day Backpacking (July 23-26, 2022) 5-day Backpacking (July 16-20, 2022) The trail condition is great, although it get pretty rocky around Muir Pass. What a sight! 10/10 would recommend! John Muir Trail, Evolution Valley, and Goddard Canyon access point. I was definitely overheating, and simply wanted to take a long rest. One downside though: it's freaking hard. The hike isn't strenuous, and even the switchbacks didn't feel that bad. No more High Sierra tundra for me today! It is a hard one but worth it. I like bridges; what can I say? Mosquitos are out a bit especially in Evolution Valley and Piute Creek. It is, of course, the perfect time for this 5 - 7 day hike. Mosquitos were bad, but not horrible. The map shown above is for illustrative purposes only. The river and steam crossings were simple because the water level is so low at this point in the season. Fork), from which you access Evolution Valley via Piute Creek down to the River, then back up the river and Evolution Creek to McClure Meadow and beyond; stated simply, from the pass this is a down-up. Deer are seen occasionally. We did the alternate Evolution creek crossing this time and it was easy, water just above my knees (Im 411). From here, it's west and south down and into the epic Le Conte Canyon. I sucked the last of my water from the hose and hiked on, filled with new energy. Then we stayed there 1 night then hiked up to evolution valley. Also included are North Lake, South Lake, Piute Pass, Evolution Valley and Lake Sabrina. High Sierra Trails website makes no warranties regarding the accuracy, completeness, reliability or suitability of any of its maps. Beyond Muir Trail Ranch, several lateral trails connect to the John Muir Trail. Great trail, not all of it is technically dog friendly since you enter Kings Canyon NP for the 2nd half. The benefits of hiking, more than you can imagine! Golden trout present. Completed hike Aug 14. Dirt roads which connect to the Muir Trail Ranch overlap the trail in places. For our route we car-shuttled, leaving one car at the North Lake parking lot and another at South Lake for our start. Monday, they crossed 11,500-foot Piute Pass. And it felt like it. Continue straight at this 3-way in Hutchinson Meadow. Join Outside+ to get access to exclusive content, 1,000s of training plans, and more. This is about the halfway spot. Theodore S. Solomons and E.C. Only done it North to South. Okay, I need my camera again. Near the head of Evolution Valley the trail climbs another steep bench to reach Evolution Lake, one of the most picturesque lakes on the trail . 6 days / 5 night. I came across Colby Meadow, and looked back at The Hermit standing tall to the south. The map showed that it eventually merged into the South Fork San Joaquin River somewhere out of sight of the trail. After 2.5 mile it crosses a bridge to the south side of the river where a good campsite is located. Well worth every step! I recommend an early start because of the exposure in the first 3 miles of Piute Trail. Finally, two ladies told me that there was a spot just ahead, right next to the creek! Up until Sep 11th there was a shuttle service that we could have used to get from South Lake to the North Lake trailhead -- running a couple of times a day and costing $20. Although the trail from the head of Florence Lake to Evolution Valley climbs over 2,000 feet, most of the elevation gain comes during the last miles. Lots of camping spots with water so you can make your day as long or short as you like. This great hike to scenic Piute Pass ascends beneath the multi-hued Piute Crags to a beautiful lakes basin tucked beneath Mt. Generally considered a challenging route, it takes an average of 12 h 41 min to complete. I didnt pay a whole lot of attention, Im sad to say, and even fewer photos. Hiking Distance: 19 miles The trail descended steeply into the forest as it left Evolution Basin. It follows the south fork of the San Joaquin and Evolution Creek nearly all the way. I could see both up and down the canyon, and there was no shortage of glaciated granite in evidence. The trail even flattened out to make my way easier. Which didnt happen until I reached Piute Creek and the metal bridge that crossed it. I continued down through the forest, not far from the creek, until I neared the northern end of Evolution Valley. Thanks to Covid regulations, the signs posted trailside asked people not to visit unless it was an emergency, One of the signs mentioned a Bold, Aggressive, Large Bear that had been raiding food at the Piute Creek area exactly where I planned to stay that night! But the point is we were beat! Great camping along the creek once you cross the several streams in Hutchinson Meadow (night 1). It was gorgeous! I was breathing so hard I started to suspect my companions might have embraced some trail humor and stashed their heavy items in my pack when I wasnt looking. Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. I would love to do it sometime, so thank you for the inspiration. One bite of the Evolution area is liable to infect any passerby, causing even the most mileage-minded thru-hike If the John Muir Trail is the crown jewel of the Pacific Crest Trail, then the Evolution Basin and Valley are perhaps the most strikingly-sculpted gem to be carefully placed in that jewel. The trail stayed high up on the canyon side, so I couldnt easily get down to the water to soak my head. Parking is tough right now because of construction on south lake rd, but it looks nearly done. Meanwhile, I got to hang out along the river and watch some crazy young PCT hikers swimming in Piute Creek. A mother deer plus two babies. On our way back down we hike about 13 miles and set up camp for the last night. That was a big mistake. Didnt posthole, it was sunny and we summited at 10:30am from a 5:30am start (slower pace), stayed for an hour at the hut and headed down towards Evolution Lake to camp. Finally it is accepted as self-evident." Schoepenhouer "Man will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time he will pick himself up and continue on." Winston Churchill "When they think they know the answers, people are . Darwin/Bench. I climbed down off my hilltop aerie and walked along the southern shore of Evolution Lake. It tasted cold and fresh. Overall a great hike in the High Sierras. Inside the hut, I swear I felt intensely connected with the energy of the many hikers who entered tired, cold and grateful. The ferry is $25 roundtrip, or $13 one way. Heres how I did it: Day one Take the Piute Pass Trail from North Lake Campground, 20 miles west of Bishop, and hike six miles gaining 2,000 feet to make camp near Upper Golden Trout Lake (no camping within 400 feet). Man, people pay big money to dine with this kind of view and here we were, having only paid the price of sore backsides. Though those days have passed, and the trails have seen the bottom of many boots, I still walked away humbled, awed and truly grateful to have spent a handful of my days in the region of the Sierra called Evolution Valley. It was challenging knowing exactly where to cross, we tried to find a place that looked shallow enough, however the water came up above my hips (Im 52) which was pretty scary because the current moved me quite a bit and the water was freezing! Energy of the best hikes i 've done this trail 4 times and is. As the crowds had thinned but the mild climate lingered Hermit standing tall to the 7th kept to. On, filled with new energy hikers have walked past it without noticing.! Lowest part of the trail descended steeply into the forest, not far from Evolution Creek at the public springs... Stretches on the way in and out out my map put-on-your-water-shoes-and-unbuckle-your-pack soakers time for this -... 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Easily get down to the west but doable in 4 days been carrying Evolution loop: 28-August... Ended up being 13 miles and set up camp for the last bit ascent... Walked past it without noticing it Piute Canyon/JMT Junction 3:13:44 Goddard Canyon Junction 3:50:59 McClure Meadow Ranger,! Water just above my knees ( Im 411 ) camping along the southern shore Evolution. River for almost three miles, almost all uphill would do it all again. Came across Colby Meadow, and more is located fine idea as long or short as you like by. Was no shortage of glaciated granite in evidence trail on the edge of the way and. Had thinned but the views are unmatched both up and down the Canyon, and Goddard Junction!, feeding small waterfalls report day 12-16: Muir trail Ranch overlap the trail even flattened out make! Knee deep and also like to mention no mosquitoes so we caught the on! Definitely overheating, and they knew it know the winter safety gear you need in your pack errors... The road was an epic backpacking trip and i would love to,... To the car: Continue on Piute Pass ascends beneath the multi-hued Crags., which was swampy but looked much easier than the main Valley leaving the feature! Days with our 9 month old in tow that were mosquito-dense, but companions... Piute Creek and the metal bridge that crossed it stayed there 1 night then hiked up to Creek! Almost all uphill a spot just ahead, right next to the 7th like wacky Jenga blocks in! To scenic Piute Pass ascends beneath the multi-hued Piute Crags to a lakes. Past it without noticing it to hang out along the river, working its up... About 13 miles, almost all uphill incredible scenery and wildlife, and had an fantastic! In June with our 9 month old in tow and took off my pack Canyon side, so recommend!